Skip to content

INDIA NORTH TO SOUTH – JAIPUR, RAJASTHAN (POEMS, PHOTOS AND VIDEOS)

December 19, 2012

JAIPUR

Jaipur, is the capital and largest city of the Indian state of Rajasthan. It was founded on 18 November 1727 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the ruler of Amber, after whom the city has been named. The city today has a population of 3.1 million.

POETRY:

Jaipur – The City Of Magnificence And Past Glory

Jaipur – the city of magnificence and past glory

Jaipur – the city of gorgeous palaces, each of which has an interesting story.

Jaipur – the city of royals, and an epitome of class and aristocracy

Jaipur – the city for History enthusiasts, and also for those who are Polo crazy.

Jaipur – the marvelous capital of India’s desert kingdom of Rajasthan

A perfectly modern city that retains its touch with the past with aplomb and élan.

Raja Basu

———————

Jaipur Blasts ‘08

The pink city looks almost red!
Some terrorists have struck some dead;
This is the work of some, misled;
Something is wrong within their head.

The will of people is too strong;
Terrorists can’t succeed for long;
They choose places where people throng;
They blast them dead like loud a song!

This is a clarion call to all;
Most blast victims need just a pall;
All patriots must unite fast,
And fight the menace till the last.

But terrorists think, most won’t join;
The war against them is prolonged;
Most nations suffer from this scourge;
United, we can win this war!

All people must be alert hence;
They must be wary of strange things;
They ought to work with common sense;
Terrorists are insane earthlings!

dedicated to the sad victims and lucky survivors!
Copyright by Dr John Celes 5-14-2008

Dr John Celes

——–

Jaipur, Bleeding

History and blood mingle together
For some people life and time stood still;
Terror strikes again
From whom, those who were hate-inspired;
To whom, the innocent as usual.

Who will heal the wounded? Who will ask
Why some people want to maim and then bask
In a kind of kinky glory
But all that is yet another story:
Families bear their loss with dignity
Jaipur will stand up and continue to live
Though it is hard to forget and forgive.

This poem is dedicated to Abha.

Rani Turton

—–

The wind palace of Jaipur

The soft pink of the wind palace
Does not jell with her poverty’s
Blazing red tie-and-dye saree
Too kitschy for our proud art,
Too sentimental for our souls.
Let us have bright red bangles
They contrast better with the pink-
There is still poverty left in them.

Jagannath rao Adukuri
———

Elephant Ride, Jaipur

Then the mahout nudged the elephant over the flags
Wet and slippy with dung and trampled leaves
This animal carriage, painted with stars and moons
Flapped her enormous ears and curled her trunk
Up like her turbanned master’s relentless grin

Dripping with rain, white knuckles gripped the howdah.
Behind the mahout’s head with its crimson bandage
His white suit, almost clean,
From the sky’s trap door the monsoon falls in sheets.
A frenzy of hawkers dog the elephant’s sway
Puppets, madam, the cheapest in Jaipur!
My name is Tony, I take your photo:
Click! Bangles? Earrings? Fit for a Maharani!

Spooked by hustlers, hawkers snapping round like wolves
Leaping, waving trinkets of wood or leather
Tourists are tills, the hagglers smell our money
We count our notes,
Penned in the rank howdah
Foreign currency making a fraught exchange

sheena blackhall
____________________________

Jaipur is the capital of Rajasthan, a state in North Western region of India. Rajasthan is the biggest state in the country and the name means the Land of Kings (Raja = King & Sthan = Place).

Jaipur is named after the King Sawai Jai Singh, the founder of the city. It is famous as a tourist destination for its palaces and forts. There are other specialties like handicraft, jewelry, garments, precious & colored stones, furnishings and other craft items, which make Jaipur a shopping haven.

Jaipur is among the first planned cities in modern Asia, with straight roads cutting each other at right angles, wide streets and numerous temples. It is said that there is a temple at every 100 meters in Jaipur and it is second only to  Varanasi in the number of temples in any city.

If Jaipur were a country, it will be the 130th most populous country in the world with about 3.5 million people. It is almost as big as Cleveland, OH (200 sqkm) and is surrounded by hills from three sides.

Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II laid the foundation of Jaipur in 1727, and the city was built in four years, to complete in November of 1731. Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh was a Kachhwaha Rajput, a princely clan in Rajasthan. The King wanted to move the Capital of the state from Amber which was 11 KMs away from the designated location. Amber was surrounded by hills from all sides and had no scope for expansion. The foresighted King knew that the city will grow and there will be scarcity of water and land.

Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh was a learned King and he was well versed with the ancient Indian principles of Vaastu and Shilpa Shastra. He wanted to build a city that would be remembered for it’s design and he appointed the best scholars of the time to plan the city of Jaipur. These scholars were led bya Bengali Brahmin, Pandit Vidyadhar.

The scholars studied the layout of various cities in the world and chose the Chinese city of  Chang’An, as the model. The city is divided into 9 blocks, with wide roads crossing each other at right angles. The main streets measure up to 100 metres wide, with streets measuring up to 30 meters. Jaipur is also surrounded by an 18 ft wall, which has 7 gates in all. The reason to keep seven gates was that the general public lived in only 7 blocks, while the remaining 2 were reserved for administration and palace.

The roads in the city were paved and were lit by gas lamps at night. Jaipur had various colleges and the artisans and craftsmen were given special protection. The city boasts of a state of the art astronomy centre, Jantar Mantar, built with the city in the 18th century, with a sun-dial that is still accurate. The Palace of Winds or the Hawa Mahal is another building that is special to Jaipur.

Jaipur is also known as Pink City . In 1853, when the Prince of Wales visited the city, all buildings were painted with the colour made from sand. All the buildings in the walled city have been painted with the same colour since then.

_______

AMBER FORT

Amber Fort, This massive fort-palace complex built in hybrid Hindu-Muslim style dates back to Raja Man Singh and was the royal palace of the Kachwahas from c. 1600-1727. The name has nothing to do with the rather pretty pastel yellow colour; instead, the fort is named after the town of Amber, in turn named after the goddess Amba. The main sights within the fort include the Sheesh Mahal, adorned with thousands on thousands of mirror tiles on the walls and ceiling.

Amber is located at a distance of 11 kilometers from Jaipur and was the old fort of the Kachhwaha clan of Amber, which used to be the capital, till it was moved to Jaipur.

The construction of the Amber Fort began in the year 1592 and was started by Man Singh I, but it was finished by his descendant Jai Singh I. The exterior of the Fort is not in the least like its interiors. The outside is very imposing and rugged looking whereas the inside is a comforting and warm interior which is influenced by both Hindu and Muslim style of ornamentation. On the walls, are paintings depicting various hunting scenes, and there is also a lot of work on walls,

which are covered with intricate carving, mosaic and minute mirror work that make the halls look very majestic and imperial.

The fort is built with white marble and red sandstone and look even more attractive because of the Maota Lake in the foreground. The fort in itself is a beautiful sight to behold but as one looks on the fort with its clear reflection on the lake in the front, one cannot help but wonder if it is a dream or a beautiful illusion.

ENTRANCE GATE  OF THE AMBER FORT

ENTRANCE GATE OF THE AMBER FORT

ENTRANE GATE AMBER FORT(DETAIL)

ENTRANCE GATE AMBER FORT
(DETAIL)

GATEWAY LEADING INTO THE PALACE PORTION F THE AMBER FORT

GATEWAY LEADING INTO THE PALACE PORTION F THE AMBER FORT

GATEWAY LEADING INTO THE PALACE PORTION F THE AMBER FORT (DETAIL)

GATEWAY LEADING INTO THE PALACE PORTION F THE AMBER FORT (DETAIL)

BEAUTIFUL INLAID PANELS

BEAUTIFUL INLAID PANELS

BEAUTIFUL SCENES DEPICTED ONTHESE PANELS

BEAUTIFUL SCENES DEPICTED ON THESE PANELS

PALACE SCENES

PALACE SCENES

BEAUTIFUL COURTYARD AT THE AMBER FORT

BEAUTIFUL COURTYARD AT THE AMBER FORT

THE PALACE WALLS FROM WHICH COULD OBSERVE BELOW WITHOUT BEING SEEN

THE PALACE WALLS FROM WHICH COULD OBSERVE BELOW WITHOUT BEING SEEN

HALL OF AUDIENCESWHERE THE MAHARAJAH WOULD RECEIVE HIS VISITORS

HALL OF AUDIENCES
WHERE THE MAHARAJAH WOULD RECEIVE HIS VISITORS

HALL OF AUDIENCES (DETAIL)

HALL OF AUDIENCES (DETAIL)

THE MAARAJAH WOULD SIT ON THESE CUSHIONS WITH HIS ADVISERS IN THE HALL OF AUDIENCES

THE MAARAJAH WOULD SIT ON THESE CUSHIONS WITH HIS ADVISERS IN THE HALL OF AUDIENCES

IN FRONT OF THE HALL OF AUDIENCES WAS THE COURTYARD WITH POOLS

IN FRONT OF THE HALL OF AUDIENCES WAS THE COURTYARD
WITH POOLS

THESE WERE QUARTERS FOR THE MAHARAJAHS WIVES

THESE WERE QUARTERS FOR THE MAHARAJAHS WIVES

FROM ABOVE ONE CAN SEE THE COURTYARD AND THE PAINTED WALLS

FROM ABOVE ONE CAN SEE THE COURTYARD AND THE PAINTED WALLS

BEAUTIFUL CARVINGS ON THE WALLS

BEAUTIFUL CARVINGS ON THE WALLS

A SMALL LION IN THE COLUMNS

A SMALL LION IN THE COLUMNS

PAINTINGS THAT SHOW THE GLORY OF BATTLE

PAINTINGS THAT SHOW THE GLORY OF BATTLE

RELIGIOUS SCENES

RELIGIOUS SCENES

RELIGIOUS SCENES (DETAIL)

RELIGIOUS SCENES (DETAIL)

REGIMENTS AT THE PALACE

REGIMENTS AT THE PALACE

RELICA OF THE MAHARAJAH IN HIS FINERY

REPLICA OF THE MAHARAJAH IN HIS FINERY

OUTSIDE THE FORT ONE CAN SEE THE ROOFS AND AN OLD TEMPLE SPIRE

OUTSIDE THE FORT ONE CAN SEE THE ROOFS AND AN OLD TEMPLE SPIRE

THE SUN GATE ANDIN THE BACK GROUND ONE CAN SEE WALLCONNECTING THE JAGARRH FORT - THAAT WAL HAS BEEN REFERRED TO AS THE GREAT WALL OF INDIA

THE SUN GATE AND IN THE BACK GROUND ONE CAN SEE WALL
CONNECTING THE JAIGARTH FORT – THAT WALL HAS BEEN REFERRED TO AS THE GREAT WALL OF INDIA

THE WALL FROM THE AMBER FORT TO THE JAIGARTH PALACE TWO MILES AWAY

THE WALL FROM THE AMBER FORT TO THE JAIGARTH PALACE TWO MILES AWA

A PLAQUE AT THE LIONS GATE

A PLAQUE AT THE LIONS GATE

AMBER FORT GARDENS

AMBER FORT GARDENS

AMBER FORT GARDENS SEEN FROM THE ROOF

AMBER FORT GARDENS SEEN FROM THE ROOF

AMBER FORT ROOFS AND THE TOWN OF AMBER

AMBER FORT ROOFS AND THE TOWN OF AMBER

AMBER FORT COURTYARD

AMBER FORT COURTYARD

JANTAR MANTAR

Near the City Palace is Jantar Mantar, an observatory begun by Jai Singh in 1728, which at first glance looks like a collection of mammoth, bizarre sculptures. Jai Singh measured time by the course of the sun’s shadow and charted the annual progress through the zodiac. Each construction has a specific purpose, such as calculating eclipses. The most striking instrument is the sundial, with its 27m-high gnomon; the shadow this casts moves up to 4m per hour.

UNNATAMSA

UNNATAMSA

UNNATAMSA (DESCRIPTION)

UNNATAMSA (DESCRIPTION)

YANTRA RAJ

YANTRA RAJ

YANTRA RAJ (DESCRIPTION)

YANTRA RAJ (DESCRIPTION)

KRANTIVRTTA

KRANTIVRTTA

KRANTIVRTTA (DESCRIPTION)

KRANTIVRTTA (DESCRIPTION)

DHRUVDARSHAK PATTIKA

DHRUVDARSHAK PATTIKA

DHRUVDARSHAK PATTIKA (DESCRIPTION)

DHRUVDARSHAK PATTIKA (DESCRIPTION)

NADIVALAYA

NADIVALAYA

NADIVALAYA (DESCRIPTION)

NADIVALAYA (DESCRIPTION)

LAGHU SAMRAT YANTRA

LAGHU SAMRAT YANTRA

LAGHU SAMRAT YANTRA (DESCRIPTION)

LAGHU SAMRAT YANTRA (DESCRIPTION)

CHAKRA YANTRA

CHAKRA YANTRA

CHAKKA YANTRA (DESCRIPTION)

CHAKKA YANTRA (DESCRIPTION)

RAM YANTRA

RAM YANTRA

RAM YANTRA  (DESCRIPTION)

RAM YANTRA (DESCRIPTION)

VRIHAT SAMRAT YANTRA

VRIHAT SAMRAT YANTRA

VRIHAT SAMRAT YANTRA  (DESCRIPTION)

VRIHAT SAMRAT YANTRA (DESCRIPTION)

HAWA MAHAL

Jaipur’s most distinctive landmark, the Hawa Mahal is a remarkable, five-storey, delicately honeycombed, pink sandstone structure. It was constructed in 1799 by Maharaja Sawaj Pratap Singh to enable ladies of the royal household to watch the life and processions of the city. It’s an amazing example of Rajput artistry, and remains a great place for people-watching from behind the small shutters. The top offers stunning views over the Jantar Mantar and the City Palace in one direction, and over Siredeori Bazaar in the other. Inside there’s a small museum evoking the royal past.

HAWA MAHAL

HAWA MAHAL

HAWA MAHAL (DETAIL)

HAWA MAHAL (DETAIL)

CITY PALACE OF JAIPUR

The City Palace of Jaipur is the main palace and the seat of the government. Construction of the palace complex began in 1732, but work continued into the late 19th century as changes were made, and structures were added. One of the last structures added to the complex is the Mubarak Mahal built in 1890.The Jaipur Darbar would be held in the City Palace as well as royal weddings, royal birthdays, religious festivals, and coronations of a new maharaja.  In the background the taller stucture towards the left is the Chandra Mahal, which contain the private apartments of the Maharaja of Jaipur.On the hilltop is the Naharagarh Fort. It is said that there is a secret passage from the City Palace to the fort. It was designed as an escape route for the maharaja and the royal family of Jaipur.City Palace has become the place of many film shootings from Hindi movies to American movies. One such mini series that was shot in the City Palace was “The Far Pavilions” based on a novel written by M. M. Kaye. Some of the Bollywood (Hindi) movies which have been filmed here are: Rajkumar, Khuda Gawa,  Bade Mian Chhote Mian, Chahaat, Na Tum Jano Na Hum,  Chor Machaaye Shor. It is to this day the home to the Maharaja and Maharani of Jaipur.
CITY PALACE OF JAIPUR

CITY PALACE OF JAIPUR

PEACOCK GATECITY PALACE JAIPUR

PEACOCK GATE
CITY PALACE JAIPUR

PEACOCK GATE (DETAIL)

PEACOCK GATE (DETAIL)
CANNON AT THE GATE OF THE CITY PALACE

CANNON AT THE GATE OF THE CITY PALACE

INSIDE THE CITY PALACE LEADING TO THE COURTYARD

INSIDE THE CITY PALACE LEADING TO THE COURTYARD

PALACE HALL

PALACE HALL

CITY PALACE MUSEUM

CITY PALACE MUSEUM

CARRIAGES AT THE CITY PALACE MUSEUM

CARRIAGES AT THE CITY PALACE MUSEUM

CARRIAGES AT THE CITY PALACE

CARRIAGES AT THE CITY PALACE

GUARDS AT THE CITY PALACE

GUARDS AT THE CITY PALACE

ELEPHANT FESTIVAL OF JAIPUR

The Elephant Festival is an annual festival which is held every year in the Pink City, Jaipur. This matchless event is organised on the full moon day of Phalgun Purnima which falls in the month of February/March. It is celebrated on the day before the festivals of colours i.e. Holi. From the ancient times, elephants have always been an important part of the Indian society. The Elephant-headed God, Ganesha, believed to be the remover of obstacles and foremost to all the gods, is revered and devotedly worshipped in all the parts of India. They are also one of the most important parts of religious events, marriage ceremonies, processions, etc. and in the historic time, they were a significant part of the battlefield.

For this festival, elephants are nicely groomed and clothed with colourful and embroidered velvets rugs and parasols and other heavy ornaments like huge elephant jewellery and anklets decked with bells. Intricate traditional Indian motifs are then painted on their bodies. Ear danglers and coloured brocade scarves adorn their ears and necks respectively. Their tusks too get jewelled up by adorning them with gold and silver bracelets and rings; while foreheads are beautified with royal looking head-plates. All this is done by their Mahouts (keepers/riders) after they are done giving their elephants a bath. Moreover, the Mahouts too bask into the sunshine of the festivities by perking up themselves in brocade jackets and royal turbans.

This festival begins with the huge and enthralling procession of the royal elephants painted with different shades of colours, embellished with heavy silver ornaments, and embroidered clothes. The elephants enter the ground with their mahouts, thumping to the sound of nagadas and loud blows of bankiya, a musical instrument. The participant elephants are all females. Elephant polo, Elephant race, the tug-of-war between Elephant and 19 men and women are the special features of this grand festival. There are live performances of dancers and musicians too. In addition to this, in the procession there are chariots, lancers on horses, camels, and palanquins. This festival is enjoyed by a huge number of crowds including the visitors from different parts of India as well as abroad. This festival, organised by Rajasthan Tourism and has now become an important part of its’ annual events calendar. In previous time, this festival was held at the Chaugan Stadium located in the old city area of Jaipur but due to the increase in crowds and fame, its venue got changed in 2011 and has been shifted to Jaipur Polo Ground which is opposite to the Sawai Mansingh Stadium.

ELEPHANT FESTIVAL  2012

ELEPHANT FESTIVAL 2

ONLOOKERS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

ONLOOKERS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

MUSICIANS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

MUSICIANS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

MUSICIANS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

MUSICIANS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

MUSICIANS PARADING IN FRONT OF THE ELEPHANTS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

MUSICIANS PARADING IN FRONT OF THE ELEPHANTS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

ELEPHANTS AND THEIR MAHOUTS

ELEPHANTS AND THEIR MAHOUTS

ELEPHANTS BEAUTIFULLY DECORATED

ELEPHANTS BEAUTIFULLY DECORATED

DECORATION OF THE ELEPHANT TO IT'S EXTREME

DECORATION OF THE ELEPHANT TO IT’S EXTREME

OXEN PULLING AN OLD CANNON

OXEN PULLING AN OLD CANNON

THE JAIPUR KAWA BRASS BAND

THE JAIPUR KAWA BRASS BAND

THE JAIPUR KAWA BRASS BAND

THE JAIPUR KAWA BRASS BAND

MUSICIANS WITH STRINGED INSTRUMENTS AND DRUMS

MUSICIANS WITH STRINGED INSTRUMENTS AND DRUMS

TUBAS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

TUBAS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

TRIO OF MUSICIANS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

TRIO OF MUSICIANS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

DANCERS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

DANCERS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

DANCERS AND MUSICIANS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

DANCERS AND MUSICIANS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

DRUMMERS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

DRUMMERS AT THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

AT THE END OF THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL WE ALL GO HOME

AT THE END OF THE ELEPHANT FESTIVAL WE ALL GO HOME

 

SOME INTERESTING VIDEOS ABOUT JAIPUR:

JAIPUR, RAJASTHAN – INDIA

Jaipur is the capital of Rajasthan state. Built of pink stucco in imitation of sandstone, the city is remarkable among pre-modern Indian cities for the width and regularity of its streets which are laid out into six quarters separated by broad streets 34 m wide. The urban quarters are further divided by networks of gridded streets. The Palace quarter encloses a sprawling palace complex (the Hawa Mahal, or palace of winds), formal gardens, and a small lake (wikipedia).
http://youtu.be/ROJ1ifl-XOY

————————–

Best of Jaipur, India: top sights

A GOOD DESCRIPTION OF THE SIGHTS OF JAIPUR

http://youtu.be/nzkIIHz0t1Y

———————————

Colorful Jaipur 1932

A tour of the Indian city of Jaipur in the 1930’s.

http://youtu.be/tWKHlw1guAI

——————————————————-

Incredible India – 2: Jaipur

travel experience: Jaipur, Palace of Winds/Hawa Mahal, Amber Fort. sadhu temple music chaotic traffic chaos elephant.

http://youtu.be/0h_h1sN01us

—————————————————

2010.02.28 Elephant Festival, Jaipur, Rajasthan, India

Coinciding with the festival of Holi is the annual elephant festival show at Chaugan stadium,Jaipur, Rajasthan. There are more than 100 elephants, all colorfully, and intricately painted and decorated as well as camels, horses, oxen, musicians and dancers which parade in front of the seating area. It is a wonderful afternoon not to be missed.

http://youtu.be/XpNpg17eZfs

———————————————————

JAIPUR ELEPHANT FESTIVAL RAJASTHAN INDIA MARCH 7 2012
from LEONARD EPSTEIN

The Elephant Festival is an annual festival which is held every year in the Pink City, Jaipur. This matchless event is organised on the full moon day of Phalgun Purnima which falls in the month of February/March. It is celebrated on the day before the festivals of colours i.e. Holi. From the ancient times, elephants have always been an important part of the Indian society. The Elephant-headed God, Ganesha, believed to be the remover of obstacles and foremost to all the gods, is revered and devotedly worshipped in all the parts of India. They are also one of the most important parts of religious events, marriage ceremonies, processions, etc. and in the historic time, they were a significant part of the battlefield.

For this festival, elephants are nicely groomed and clothed with colourful and embroidered velvets rugs and parasols and other heavy ornaments like huge elephant jewellery and anklets decked with bells. Intricate traditional Indian motifs are then painted on their bodies. Ear danglers and coloured brocade scarves adorn their ears and necks respectively. Their tusks too get jewelled up by adorning them with gold and silver bracelets and rings; while foreheads are beautified with royal looking head-plates. All this is done by their Mahouts (keepers/riders) after they are done giving their elephants a bath. Moreover, the Mahouts too bask into the sunshine of the festivities by perking up themselves in brocade jackets and royal turbans.

This festival begins with the huge and enthralling procession of the royal elephants painted with different shades of colours, embellished with heavy silver ornaments, and embroidered clothes. The elephants enter the ground with their mahouts, thumping to the sound of nagadas and loud blows of bankiya, a musical instrument. The participant elephants are all females. Elephant polo, Elephant race, the tug-of-war between Elephant and 19 men and women are the special features of this grand festival. There are live performances of dancers and musicians too. In addition to this, in the procession there are chariots, lancers on horses, camels, and palanquins. This festival is enjoyed by a huge number of crowds including the visitors from different parts of India as well as abroad. This festival, organised by Rajasthan Tourism and has now become an important part of its’ annual events calendar. In previous time, this festival was held at the Chaugan Stadium located in the old city area of Jaipur but due to the increase in crowds and fame, its venue got changed in 2011 and has been shifted to Jaipur Polo Ground which is opposite to the Sawai Mansingh Stadium.

————————————————–

PHOTOS BY: LEONARD EPSTEIN
JANELLE BURGESS

 

 

 

 

No comments yet

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: